Albania in 7 days
Don’t try to see the entire country.
If you have 7 days in Albania, my biggest piece of advice is: don't try to see the entire country.
I know it looks small on the map. It isn't.
You can spend hours driving between places, especially once you start following the coast, and if you try to squeeze Tirana, Berat, Gjirokastër, Ksamil, Theth, Shkodër and the Riviera into one week, you'll spend half your holiday in a car.
If it were my first week in Albania, I'd go south.
Tirana Berat Gjirokastër Sarandë/Ksamil Albanian Riviera Tirana
That gives you cities, history, mountains, beaches, food and some of the best roads in the country without turning the trip into a race.
The route below is how I'd personally do 7 days in Albania.
The route, day by day
Tirana
Start in Tirana.
Don't make the mistake of arriving in Albania and immediately driving straight to the beach.
Tirana gives you your first feeling of Albania.
I'd spend the afternoon walking around Skanderbeg Square, seeing the Et'hem Bey Mosque, walking toward Blloku and stopping for coffee.
And honestly, take your time with the coffee.
Albanian coffee culture isn't something I'd rush through. Sit down, talk, watch people and let yourself arrive.
What I'd do
- Skanderbeg Square
- Et'hem Bey Mosque
- New Bazaar
- Bunk'Art if you're interested in Albania's communist history
- Blloku in the evening
- Dinner somewhere local
- Drinks after dinner
My favourite part of Tirana is actually night-time.
The city changes completely after dinner, especially around Blloku.
Where I'd stay
I'd stay somewhere central enough that I can walk to restaurants and nightlife.
You don't need a resort here. You're exploring the city.
Berat
Get up, have breakfast and drive to Berat.
This is one of those places where I think photos don't really explain why you should go.
The white Ottoman houses climbing the hillside are what everyone photographs, but I love Berat more once you stop looking at it like a viewpoint and actually walk through it.
I'd visit
Berat Castle. Go up into the castle and walk around rather than just taking the famous photo.
Then walk through Mangalem and cross the river into Gorica.
The old stone bridge is one of my favourite places for a slow walk.
Berat: the footbridge over the Osum and the houses of Mangalem. Then eat.
Berat is somewhere I'd specifically make time for traditional Albanian food.
Try tavë kosi, local meat dishes and whatever the restaurant recommends that day.
I'd rather have a proper Albanian lunch here than spend two hours looking for some fancy international restaurant.
Stay overnight?
Yes.
I wouldn't rush back to Tirana.
Berat is beautiful after the day-trippers leave.
Gjirokastër
This is a driving day, but it's worth it.
Head toward Gjirokastër.
The first time you see the stone roofs covering the hills, you'll understand why people call it the Stone City.
I'd go straight up toward Gjirokastër Castle.
The castle is huge, and you can easily spend a couple of hours walking around it.
The stone roofs of Gjirokastër. Then forget the car for a while.
Walk the old bazaar.
Look at the stone houses.
Stop for coffee.
Eat something.
This is one of those Albanian cities where I wouldn't plan every minute.
Just walk.
My tip
Stay overnight if you can.
Gjirokastër feels completely different once the streets get quieter in the evening.
And if you have time, the Blue Eye is an excellent stop either today or tomorrow depending on your route. The spring is roughly between Gjirokastër and Sarandë and is particularly easy to add to a southern Albania road trip.
Sarandë & Ksamil
Now we're going to the coast.
And this is where the trip changes.
I'd drive from Gjirokastër toward Sarandë, then continue to Ksamil.
If it's summer, start early.
Ksamil gets extremely busy in peak season.
I'd spend the day around Ksamil
Swim.
Take a boat around the islands.
Eat seafood.
Have a drink by the water.
Then, if you have the energy, go to Butrint.
And honestly, don't skip Butrint just because you're on a beach holiday.
You're walking through Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian history in the middle of a protected natural landscape.
Where I'd sleep
I'd personally choose Ksamil or Sarandë depending on what kind of night I want.
Want beaches and a quieter evening? Ksamil.
Want more restaurants, bars and nightlife? Sarandë.
Tours and day trips for this route
Browse all tours and day trips in Albania on GetYourGuide.
The Riviera and the way back
The Albanian Riviera begins
Now comes my favourite part of the road trip.
Drive north from Sarandë along the SH8 coastal road.
This is where I would tell you: don't treat the drive as transportation.
The road itself is the experience.
You'll pass through places like:
- Borsh
- Qeparo
- Himarë
- Porto Palermo
- Dhërmi
- Palasë
The Vlorë–Qeparo section is widely regarded as one of Albania's most scenic coastal drives, with mountains, beaches and villages constantly changing around you.
My favourite way to do it
Stop when you see somewhere that looks good.
Seriously.
Not every stop needs to be on Google.
Have lunch somewhere local.
Swim.
Take photos.
Then continue.
Sleep in Himarë or Dhërmi
I'd choose Himarë if I wanted something more relaxed.
I'd choose Dhërmi if I wanted beach clubs, nightlife and a younger summer atmosphere.
Riviera day
This is the day I'd deliberately do less.
You've been driving.
You've been sightseeing.
Now enjoy Albania.
I'd wake up late, have coffee, find a beach and stay there.
Depending on where you're staying, I'd look at:
- Gjipe
- Jale
- Livadhi
- Drymades
- Palasë
- Himarë beaches
And here's my personal rule: don't try to visit five beaches in one day.
Pick one or two.
Actually swim.
Actually sit down.
Have lunch.
Watch the sunset.
That's the Albania I love.
Dhërmi: one beach, all day. Dhërmi in particular gives you the combination of an old mountain village, beaches and summer nightlife in one place.
Llogara → Vlorë → Tirana
This is the perfect final driving day.
Leave the Riviera and head toward Llogara.
If the weather is clear, stop for the views.
The traditional Llogara road is one of the most spectacular sections of the journey, even though the newer tunnel has made the route much quicker.
Then continue toward Vlorë.
I'd have lunch around the waterfront and walk along Lungomare.
Then drive back toward Tirana.
And that's it.
You didn't see everything.
That's the point.
You saw enough to understand why people come back.
Would I change it?
If you're obsessed with beaches, yes.
I'd remove Berat and spend another day on the Riviera.
If you're obsessed with history, I'd keep Berat and Gjirokastër.
If you hate driving, don't do this itinerary. Stay in fewer places.